Shirt toile progression

So today i was working on my shirt as I'm fed up with my trousers!!

After the fitting adjustments I made on the mannequin last week I tried the shirt on myself and apparently the mannequin was freakishly small which means I've had to redo the alterations.

My shirt still needs a collar but I drafter that today so fingers crossed it will work. The shirt was really baggy around the waist even when i tried it on so i've taken a considerable amount out here and under the bust which you can see above.

The plan is to only take the darts up to the bust point and not all the way to the armhole. I think this will just be a little bit neater.

I've had to take some fabric out at the small of the back so it sits closer to the body. I've also taken a little out of the waist as i did on the front.

I need to work out what I'm doing with this horrible hemline!

Like last week the sleeve still needs slimming so the pleats don't come so far round the front of the sleeve distorting the way it hangs.

3rd trouser toile

These trousers are proving to be the bane of my existence! Is it me or did they look better before? (Please excuse the cheesy mirror photos!)

I think I preferred the pleats going the other way, and the waistline needs to be much higher - perhaps even bring back the waistband? Maybe they need it after all? I hate making decisions... I'm going to leave them as is for the time being just so i can get some other people opinions before I mess them up even more!

Toile alterations

Over the week I've sewn together another trouser toile and a shirt toile, which you can see below:

Trouser pleats are usually sewn towards the side seams and not CF, so I'm not sure if they look wrong? Although this was part of the design. I might sew them the other way in my next toile just to see what they look like. I've inserted pockets into the seam with the pleat which i think is a nice feature. And I'm considering zip fastenings instead of buttons to secure the turn down.

I'm not sure the proportions of the waistband are working so I've been playing around with different widths:

I'm not sure any of these work. The top one is the best if any - just slightly larger than the current waistband. I'm rethinking the idea of a waistband all together - do I even need one?

The shirt is quite large so I've done a lot of fitting to it, especially around the waist. Also, the pleats in the sleeve are coming round the front which i don't think should be happening as they're distorting the hang of the sleeve - which you can see by the twisting.